FRANCE 🇫🇷
Some 56 years ago, while the United States was still involved in an absolute lie of a war in Southeast Asia and Richard Nixon was president, La Bonne Soupe appeared on 55th Street in 1973. While certain improvements keep the place comfortable, it also retains some of what might be considered the "charm" of any restaurant that has been open this long.
Today in the tight space you might overhear the next table talking about illegitimate wars and terrible Republican presidents just like back in 1973. But then again, this is Midtown, and the likelihood to hear a banker or tourist with the opposite opinion is probably just has high.
When the French-accented waiter arrives to take your order, it is of course the soupe a l'oignon (above) that brought you here, the ancient peasant soup usually referred to here as French onion. As is almost customary in this country, the soup is served gratinéed and is recognized by the thick layer of melted cheese that half-burns onto its ceramic bowl.
It can be enjoyed à la carte, but also as a meal for $26 that includes bread, a salad, dessert, and a glass of their house wine. This seems to be the most favored route of customers old and new. Each component is not as extraordinary as the soup, but makes for a pleasant course. The salad part of the salad is quite forgettable but having a chance to use their delicious dijon-based dressing is reason enough to order the set. Is that chicken broth in there?
They have other, probably unappreciated soups on the menu that can also be turned into this prix fixe, quiches, crêpes, and hamburgers, but do ask about the rotating daily specials.
On a recent evening the list pulled up a very good coq au vin ($23, above), chicken braised in Burgundy and served with some really delightful whipped buttery potatoes. The current chef Michel Pombet draws inspiration from his childhood in Paris, which can almost be tasted in this sauce.
Given two dessert options with the soup prix fixe, the server recommended the chocolate mousse (below), which did enough to satisfy the after meal sweet tooth. Fin.
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