MALAYSIA 🇲🇾
At some point about a year ago, longtime Sunset Park resident Nyonya, cooking the Peranakan food of descendents of Chinese immigrants to Malaysia did some renovations and modernized. Then, with little fanfare a few months ago, the name disappeared and was replaced by Langkawi. It seems the mini-chain, which still has branches in Manhattan's Chinatown and 86th Street in Gravesend, has given up its Sunset Park operation and a new group has taken over.
Named for a picturesque island in the northern state of Kedah right on the Thai border, it is a place that inspires on many levels. The menu is really not all that different, still with a focus on Malaysian-Chinese favorites, all of which are pulled off generally with the same level of skill and love as most of the rest in the city. Which is to say it's fine, not mind-blowing.
Regardless of the creators, it is always difficult to start a meal without the Indian-influenced roti canai ($3.95, above), which was the best dish of our meal by far. Sometimes this dish can be forgettable, but this had me remembering mornings in Malaysia where I would wake up with Indian curries and flatbreads on my mind.
I am always intrigued by the sour tamarind and fish-based soup that is asam laksa ($8.50, below), but it is rarely executed well here in New York City. This version does not change that statistic, but it's not so bad. Underneath the bed of pineapples and vegetables, thick, slippery rice noodles await in the murky sour broth.
Meanwhile, the Langkawi seafood pan fried noodle ($14.95, below) did not actually seem to be pan fried. While it uses good ingredients, the flavors lacked a clear mission and were firmly on the plain side.
A glass of lychee soda (below) will set you back $4.50.
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