Kopitiam

MALAYSIA 🇲🇾

For the first few years of its existence, Kopitiam lived around the corner in a tiny space on Canal Street but popularity continually stressed its ability to comfort. Then at the end of 2017 it abruptly disappeared with only a promise left behind that something new would eventually come.

Thankfully this happened over the summer. The new space on East Broadway is not all that larger, but with much more seating and functionality allows it to be the all day restaurant it desires to be. The kitchen has room to spread its wings and the menu follows suit, offering all the Chinese-Malay dishes that would never have been possible at the old location.

Kopitiam simply means "coffee shop," so do not stop by without trying one of their offerings. Penang-style black coffee (kopi) is available alone, with ghee butter, evaporated milk or with sweet condensed milk like the cup above called kopi tarik ($4.50). Bek-kopi, the white Penang coffee the internet exploded over a couple years back is still here.

Oh chien, fried oyster omelette ($12)

The food, like most Malaysian in New York City, is Peranakan, rich in the influences of Chinese immigrants have brought to the country for centuries. The food is not limited by these two cultures though, it also reaches out and grabs bits of Indian and other Southeast Asian cultures that have blended here forever.

Otak otak, fish cake in banana leaf ($5)

The focus is not so much on belly-stuffing entrees as it is on snacks and smaller plates. While prices are reasonable, portions are small and you can easily find yourself in the $30/person range if sampling a few items.

Lobak, fried pork roll ($6)

Pulut panggang, rice with shrimp paste ($6)

Normally a breakfast item, pan mee ($10, above and below) seems to be somewhat of a house specialty. A rich broth is made oily and fishy by fried anchovies that wonderfully release their powers into the bowl. The homemade knife cut noodles are a true pleasure, thick and chewy.

Fish ball soup with vermicelli ($8)

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CHINATOWN Manhattan

151 East Broadway

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