Nueva Fuente

MÉXICO 🇲🇽

It is always worth reading the fine print on an awning that has "Deli Grocery" emblazoned across the colors of the Mexican flag. In this case, underneath is that telltale sign of a kitchen inside that begins with "Tacos, tortas..." At this point, walking inside to inspect and at least grab a menu is a no-brainer.

Unlike some nearby places we recently featured for The Queens Tribune, the kitchen at Nueva Fuente has not surpassed the other business of the deli. The fresh juices and flowers in the front as well as all manner of cans and bottles of processed foods, sodas, and beer are a larger seller it seems. This could change though, the kitchen is a good one.

The menu here is massive and includes the wide range of standard antojitos as well as about ten large plates like mole poblano and pipian. The Plato La Nueva Fuente ($12, not shown) is carne asada with a cactus salad. Weekends bring soups like pozole, pancita, and mole de olla as well as barbacoa.

Depending on the day, the deli and kitchen opens early at 06:00 or 07:00, making it popular for quick breakfast sandwiches but also huevos a la mexicana and these chilaquiles con cecina ($11, above and below). Three small tables, each with two chairs, are pushed together in the back and available for customers to sit down and eat.

This order was surprisingly satisfying, with a nice touch of two fresh slices of avocado on top. The cecina is cut small and easily managed, generously drizzled over a layer of their wonderful green salsa and crisp tortilla chips.

Be careful with your orientation in this back area, as packages of chili dusted nuts and crispy fried chicharrón are hanging nearby. Facing the wrong way during your meal may cause you to end up snacking on these temptations by the end of your stay.

At first glance, I thought the singular taco árabe on the menu was a simple typo given the $7 price tag. Most likely, two or three of the flour tortilla-rolled tacos would arrive, right?

This is no mistake though, they serve their taco árabe ($7, above and below) massive, taking on the look of a Mission-style burrito. Some places in New York City and elsewhere are cheating with their tacos árabes and using al pastor meats, but Nueva Fuente seems to be cooking it in a more traditional Pueblan way, despite using a simple flour tortilla instead of pan árabe.

Onions are always an important part of the traditional version, but this also adds a nice crumbly cheese as well, a take I had never seen before. A purist might want to mention to hold the cheese, but at least give it a try on the first visit.

After a few meals here, I certainly am glad to have read that fine print.

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CORONA Queens

98-18 Northern Blvd

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