Yiwanmen Chongqing Noodle

CHINA

The Chinese name of this restaurant, and its poorly transliterated English name, mean "a bowl of noodles," no best or lucky needed it seems. If we stick with this theme, the place should serve good value noodle bowls without much flash. Holding it up to this standard, the place passes with flying colors.

Before these serviceable bowls of noodles arrived, it was hard to resist the "bun" menu. Both the roast duck bun ($4, below right) and the pork belly bun ($3, below left) are worth giving a try.

The menu of noodle soups here is not too long, focusing on a dozen or so and doing them well. For the highest mix of textures, try the beef offal rice noodle ($8.95, below). This clear soup uses a thinner noodle, meat balls, and sliced beef in addition to tripe.

The name of the restaurant sometimes includes "Chongqing Noodle" in it, but there is really only one option from Sichuan. This was the word that got us inside, so trying the Chongqing red oil noodle ($6.75, below) was mandatory. This bowl glows like proper Sichuan food should, and is full of minced pork, vegetables, peanuts, and half a tea egg. The broth is very satisfying, and can be catered to your proper spice level.

This restaurant is easy to pop into for a quick lunch or dinner, but would not suit a group so well. Pick the dining room door on the right, as the left door will take you right into the kitchen, also a good time.

CHINATOWN Manhattan

150 Mott Street (#E)