Frank's Soup Bowl

JAMAICA

With this name, you can almost be sure you are going to be treated like family in Frank's Soup Bowl. In this casual little Jamaican eatery, two sides greet you upon entering, a counter to order, and a small dining room, which needs to be accessed back through the entry vestibule after ordering. I suppose you could just sit down and yell your order through the window between the two spaces.

Besides ginger beer and other island soft drinks, there is a line of "Pat's Exotic Beverage" worth checking out. My peanut punch ($3.50, below) was almost a hearty meal in itself, thick and rich and sweet. This would definitely dull the pain from any fiery meals you might eat.

Not spicy, but thoroughly wonderful is the cowfoot soup ($3.50, below medium order), which also comes in a small and large size, all which are very good value. The hunk of fatty meat serves to anchor the thick stew containing butter beans, carrots, yuca, and dumplings.

While we were enjoying this bowl before heading for more food at other places, Frank himself, a hulking man with a quiet gentle demeanor, walked past and made sure everything was just right. Although today in the form of a flimsy aluminum takeout container, Frank's soup bowl was certainly filled with joy.

WILLIAMSBRIDGE Bronx

3580 Bronxwood Avenue