Tacos El Bronco (truck)

MEXICO

Usually at night, you stay away from the dark scary corners, but Sunset Park has one exception to this rule. Across from a massive MTA bus depot, with fences and barbed wire the theme of surrounding decor, the Tacos El Bronco truck is lit up and can be seen for blocks, kind of the only bright thing in the vicinity.

In cold weather months, the truck sets up a relatively spacious attached structure complete with ledges for eating. In warm weather months, you will find families making themselves a picnic on the sidewalk nearby. Either way, you know something special is happening here, and stopping is almost a formality no matter what your level of hunger.

On weekends, get a cup of birria ($3.50, below), not made with goat but still delicious. This specialty of Jalisco is not a common occurrence in New York City, and even this version pales in comparison to what the dish can be, but it is worth trying nonetheless.

The stew is made here with beef and a base of dried, roasted peppers. The broth is oily and alternates between being red and brown, and will end up leaving its mark on your spoon, the Greek-style coffee cup they serve it in, and probably your hands. In a restaurant (maybe even a birrieria), you would also get tortillas, lime, and cilantro to mix in as you wish. The cilantro and lime seem to be mixed in already with this version, and just as well they seem to have their ratios worked out right.

The tacos here are all of the smaller variety, and when served together on your plate, it really brings back memories of Mexico City. Half the ingredients are $1.50, the other half are $1.75. Four made me a nice lunch. Sure, that costs 10 pesos for three or four tacos (around $1) down there, but the similarities cannot go on forever.

They have a spit of roasted pork (al pastor), and this is only a good sign of things to come. The fresh pineapples and marinade make this taco a must have at the truck. Also of note is the tripe (below), which while not as crispy and cooked as most Mexican versions, is very delicious and recommended. The homemade green salsa has a better kick than most, and is good on all the tacos I have used it on so far.

My only advice is to come in the evening around dinner, or later at night on weekends, when business at the truck is really hopping. During slower times, there is a slight dip in the freshness of everything since there is not as much cooking at once. This only makes sense, and it is fun to see them at maximum capacity anyways.

SUNSET PARK Brooklyn

5th Avenue / 37th Street

(Check website for hours)