Tortas Neza

MEXICO

Picture from previous location

[UPDATE: Tortas Neza is now a small window inside of Juan Bar]

This place is serious about their sandwiches. And football. The owner has a passion for Pumas F.C., a club based in Mexico City, and you see this looming large on the outside awning, the walls, and even on his arm in the form of a tattoo. The granddaddy of all his sandwiches is a monstrosity and $14, named the torta pumas. To be fair to fans of other clubs, he has sandwiches named for many big teams, all in the $6-8 range.

Each sandwich is prepared to order, he'll pull out the volleyball-looking quesillo and untwine it before separating smaller strips to be melted. If there is no line, it's only a wait of about five minutes or so, and worth it.

We wanted to try both a torta and a cemita, so first selected the cemita milanese de pollo ($8, below). The milanesa here is nothing spectacular, but is quite meaty, and very big. I usually go for a cemita without a second thought, owing to its extra tastiness with better bread and chipotle sauces, but here I think it is an afterthought. On successive visits I will definitely run down the list of tortas.

One torta that did find its way into our mouths though was the exciting torta Regillas ($7, below), a combination of the quesillo and enchilada, a spicy pork. The sandwich came in the shape of a huarache, and started falling all over the place immediately. It was really delicious though, and didn't really need spiced up.

If so desired, you will be offered a large cup of homemade pepper concoction (below), to add spice to your sandwiches as you see fit. The pickled peppers are really something, I used them as intended but also slipped a couple on their own.

The place has a charm to it despite its simplicity, and it was fun to get the owner started on stories of his football club and reasons for everything. He is obviously a passionate guy who loves his trade and his football, and brought the two together harmoniously.

CORONA Queens
96-15 Roosevelt Avenue