Café Triskell

FRANCE

Cute Café Triskell had attracted my attention a few months back walking past after another meal. It went straight into my notes though, and a recent nearby event made it very convenient to go back and eat. The inviting yellow inside and out as well as French cottage decor make a very inviting place overall, but on this Sunday's mid-afternoon, loud bass was pumping from next door, making the audio of the place a bit disorienting.

I could not help myself with the first item on the menu, immediately ordering up the French onion soup ($5.75, below). Grandma has set the bar impossibly high on this item, but the rendition here is far from disappointing, with crispy cheese oozing over and around the crock. The broth is spot on, and only made me sad to reach the bottom, picking and spooning tiny morsels until my bowl was finally removed from the table.

In between courses I inquired about the origin of the triskell, a symbol used prominently in the signage of this place, and obviously its namesake. Mr. Fallait, the chef and owner didn't seem used to the question or was very busy, but alluded to the Celtic influences in the seas north of France and in Bretagne, the origin of the crêpe.

I was lucky enough to be joined for this meal by five others and we sampled quite a variety of items, including the behemoth chicken, vegetables & goat cheese ($9.75, below), by far the largest crêpe of the day, and quite tasty in all its peppery goodness. The cheese was nothing out of the ordinary, but goat cheese never needs to be to satisfy.

The second favorite was the button mushroom, Swiss cheese & herb butter crêpe ($7.95, below). The Swiss is in between the fold, while the mushrooms are loaded on top and full of flavor. The butter is quite subtle, but all the herbs bring together the rest of the tastes quite well.

Also on offer are a set of three sandwiches, of which the croque-madame ($9.95, below) is the most awe-sinspiring. It's a basic ham & cheese sandwich served on delicious thick and fluffy bread and topped with an egg, making things interesting. The sandwich is tasty and satisfying, but sticking to the crêpes here is probably a better idea.

We also ordered a lemon & sugar crêpe ($4.75) for a dessert to share and were treated to a butter & sugar ($4.50) on the house. The two thin and sweet crêpes made for the perfect ending to a thoroughly enjoyable meal. It was so comfortable inside that it almost made me sad to leave the quaint place, especially since the pounding bass from next door had subsided.

ASTORIA Queens

33-04 36th Avenue