Chao Thai

THAILAND

Small six-table establishment filled with lots of young Thais, this place definitely passes tough standards, and even has a specials board completely written in Thai. The walls are bright green and the whole place has a friendly, festive atmosphere. It is a little hit or miss though, as sometimes the service and even the food can have off nights. They don't serve beer, but allow you to bring it in from next door, which is always a money saver.

Not to be missed: The yum nam sod ($8.50), any of the curries ($8.50 to $11.95) and anything off the special board. Try the "Jungle Curry" if you dare! It is delightful to have the server try and talk you out of it.

Things that have not had the success are usually the coconut milk based soups. I had recently become re-obsessed with tom kha gai after visiting Brooklyn's best Thai restaurant, and was sad on my last visit to find Chao Thai's rendition ($8.95, below) not up to par.

ELMHURST Queens

85-03 Whitney Avenue